Golden Turkey Stock

YIELD — Makes approximately 4 quarts / 16 cups

For those wondering if it’s worth it to make your own stock, my suggestion is to taste the boxed stock out of the container and then taste this, side by side. If you don’t want to do that, then trust me when I say: It does. But aside from flavor, it’s always the first (and therefore, my favorite) thing I do when prepping for Thanksgiving. Putting the stock on is the start of something, the beginning of a ritual. It’s a bit of extra work, but the sort of enjoyable, passive work that makes your house smell wonderful and all your food taste better.

Also, I know it says turkey stock, but sure you can make this with chicken (and then, it does unfortunately, become chicken stock). But in the context of things like gravy or stuffing, all that matters is that you have a deeply flavorful stock for which to season things. I doubt you’ll be able to tell the difference.

Ingredients

• 4–5 pounds turkey or chicken wings
• 2 tablespoons olive or neutral oil
• Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper
• 2 large carrots (about ½ pound), unpeeled, chopped
• 2 heads garlic, halved crosswise
• 2 large (about 1 pound) yellow onions, unpeeled, roughly chopped
• ½ bunch celery (about ½ pound), chopped
• A few sprigs whatever herbs you have: thyme, oregano, or marjoram, and/or a bay leaf

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C (no fan). Place turkey wings (and the neck if you have it) on a sheet pan, drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast the wings, flipping once or twice, until deeply golden brown, 40–50 minutes (closer to 35–40 for chicken).
2. Remove the turkey wings from the oven, and transfer them to your largest pot (at least 5.5 quart pot) along with carrots, onions, celery, and whatever herbs you have. Cover with water (at least 10 cups), season well with salt and bring to a simmer.
3. Meanwhile, pour another 1 cup of water onto the sheet pan, and, using a wooden spoon or spatula, scrape up any of the deeply browned bits, and add all those drippings to the pot as well.
4. Simmer stock until the wings are nearly falling apart and the liquid is wildly flavorful, so good you could drink it, 2½–3 hours.
5. Using tongs, remove the wings and set them aside in a bowl (I like to pick the meat and either snack on it or add to something like my next-day pot pie). Then strain the stock through a colander (no need to go finer than that) into a large bowl or other pot. Transfer to resealable containers of your choosing, then refrigerate or freeze.

DO AHEAD: Stock can be made one month ahead, stored sealed and frozen, but who’s doing that? You can also make it 5 days ahead, stored sealed and refrigerated..

LEFTOVERS: Since this will keep well in the freezer, you can simply treat this like chicken broth or any other broth. Use it to start soups, stews, and braises. Grate ginger into it and drink out of a mug, etc.