Charred Citrus Chicken

Grilling a chicken that’s been marinated and basted in sweet, tangy citrus, a bit of salty soy sauce, and a good amount of funky, spicy something (like yuzu kosho, Japanese fermented chili paste) is simple and pleasant and gets along with everything—kind of like your favorite T-shirt that you wear over and over again, or your really nice neighbor who always brings packages in for you when you’re out of town. It’s just a really good chicken, and honestly, sometimes that’s all you need. Since this marinade is so agreeable and the technique so straightforward, it’s an excellent opportunity to add vegetables to cook alongside the chicken, if you like. Pick something quick cooking, like sliced fennel, a bunch of scallions, quartered radishes, or fresh chiles. While the default here is for roasting, I’ve also included instructions for grilling, since this particular marinade works extremely well with the deep, smoky, charred flavors that come from the grill. If grilling, feel free to add some additional cut citrus so that it can char alongside the chicken, perfect for squeezing over when serving.

YIELD — 4–6 servings

Ingredients

• 1⁄2 cup fresh lime juice (from 4–6 limes)

• 1⁄2 cup fresh lemon juice (from 4–6 lemons), plus 1 lemon, thinly sliced

• 1 cup fresh orange juice, plus 1 orange, thinly sliced, seeds removed

• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

• 3 tablespoons fish sauce

• 2 tablespoons canola oil, plus more

• 2 tablespoons yuzu kosho or sambal, or 1 jalapeño, finely chopped

• 4 garlic cloves, finely grated
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3 1⁄2- to 4-pound chicken, halved lengthwise through the backbone, or bone-in, skin-on parts

• fresh herbs, such as cilantro stems, parsley, thyme, rosemary, or marjoram, for serving

Directions

1. To make the marinade, combine the lime juice, lemon juice, orange juice, Worcestershire sauce, fish sauce, yuzu kosho, and garlic in a medium bowl and season with salt and pepper. Set about half aside for later, and add the rest of the marinade to a large bowl, resealable bag, or baking dish. Add the chicken, tossing to coat well. Let it sit in the marinade for a while (at least 30 minutes, but up to 2 days, in the refrigerator).

2. Preheat the oven to 425°F. (Alternatively, heat a grill to medium heat, with cooler coals or low flames on one side. You can grill the chicken over hotter flames, but it can be challenging to manage; for beginners, it’s good to err on the side of the coals being slightly cooler than slightly hotter.)

3. Remove the chicken from the marinade (discarding the marinade the chicken was sitting in). Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken skin-side down and cook for 5–7 minutes, until golden brown and chicken releases easily from the skillet. Flip the chicken and add a bit more of the marinade to the skillet.

4. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook for 20–25 minutes. (Alternatively, place the chicken skin side down on the grill and cover; make sure the vents are open. Let it grill, resisting the urge to turn or check too frequently until it’s nicely golden brown with those cute little grill marks, 10 to 12 minutes; just like when you’re searing chicken in a skillet, the skin will release effortlessly once it’s cooked and golden. Attempting to move it beforehand will probably tear the skin and maybe ruin your day! Using your finest and largest tongs, carefully flip the chicken and cover so that it continues to grill and cook on the other side, another 10 to 12 minutes. Flip once more, skin side down, and add a few halves of cut citrus. Continue to grill another 5 to 8 minutes, to recrisp the skin and finish cooking through.)

5. Place the remaining citrus slices on a platter or cutting board and scatter with the herbs, if using. Place the cooked chicken on top, skin side up, and spoon some of the reserved marinade over. Let the chicken rest for 10 to 20 minutes, allowing its juices to mingle with the fresh citrus. Carve the chicken into pieces before serving.

DO AHEAD: Chicken can be cooked a few hours ahead, loosely covered with foil, and kept at room temperature. Serve either at room temperature or throw it back into a 425°F oven (or on the grill) for a quick reheat.