What to Cook

Sticky Chili Chicken with Hot-and-Sour Pineapple

The sticky, caramelized bits of pineapple that get basted with spicy chicken fat as they roast together are a match made in sheet-pan dinner heaven.

Spicy Pork Meatballs in Brothy Tomatoes and Toasted Fennel

Bound by yogurt with no bread crumbs or egg in sight, the meatballs are light, springy, and accidentally gluten-free.

Butcher’s Steak with Dried Chiles and Salted Peanuts

If you can, go to Oaxaca and have the real deal.

Tiny Creamy Pasta with Black Pepper and Pecorino

The egg yolks are optional, but they add that much more creaminess.

Lemony White Beans and Escarole with Anchovy and Parmesan

Part starch, part salad—great for when you want both but don’t feel like making both.

Frizzled Chickpeas and Onions with Feta and Oregano

Not quite fried, not quite caramelized, they sizzle and crisp and caramelize in a good amount of olive oil along with smashed garlic, resulting in what can only be described as frizzled.

Black Lentils with Crispy Garlic and Labne

They appear expensive and complicated, but are actually pretty cheap and can be cooked just like pasta.

Garlicky Broccoli and Greens with Hazelnut and Coriander

If you haven’t had grilled broccoli, dare I say “You haven’t lived”?

Long-Roasted Eggplant with Garlic, Labne, and Tiny Chile Croutons

It browns and caramelizes while the rest of it turns to the texture that reminds me of the inside of a perfectly just set 6-minute egg. A true miracle.

Beets with Buttermilk and Walnuts

Because of their intense sweet, earthy flavor, for me to really love a beet I have to eat it with something very creamy, very tangy, and very herby.

Creamy Cauliflower and Onion Gratin

Once this dish was born, I realized I was essentially using cauliflower as a replacement for pasta in this pasta-less version of what reminds me of macaroni and cheese.

Roasted Squash with Yogurt and Spiced, Buttered Pistachios

Most winter squash works here, but my favorites are the larger, thick-skinned varieties such as Red Kuri, kabocha, and acorn, because you can eat the skin (and the seeds!).