What to Cook

Luckiest Biscuits in America

Biscuit making is a practice, a recipe you begin to feel rather than follow. They’ll only get better every time you make them

Stovetop Jam

While jam often feels like sugar thickened with fruit, this here is a celebration of the fruit itself.

Cold Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

This carrot cake, sans raisins and nuts (!!) is, to me, perfect. It’s perfect at room temperature, too, but refrigerating it gives it a dense, custardy, almost fudge-like texture that screams “mid-day snack.”

Baked Shells

Less intensely indulgent than classic Baked Ziti and a lot less fussy than lasagna, in my old age this is sort of the only baked pasta I’m making these days. It’s got all the hits: pasta, cheese, sauce, but feels casual in a way that makes it possible to throw together for dinner tonight.

Citrus Salad with Bitter Greens

The perfect way to use winter citrus. Arrange bitter leaves on a plate, layer with sliced citrus and onion and season casually with flaky salt, vinegar and oil.

Sheet-Pan Trout With Garlicky Broccolini

The benefits of cooking trout whole, butterflied go beyond visual appeal—the large piece drastically reduces the risk of overcooking, and the longer roasting time gives other vegetables on the pan a chance to crisp up.

Any-Greens Mustard Dressing

This one is pretty basic, but very good, with lots of whole grain mustard– the spicier the better for me– but Dijon works, too (just expect a creamier texture). As for the greens, peppery arugula, crisp romaine, and ruffly kale are all great contenders, but my hands-down favorite is escarole.

Blanched Broccoli

Treated well, broccoli can be spectacular. Cut into elegant little spears, tender, perfect for dousing in lemon juice, adding some raw grated garlic and sprinkling with flaky salt and it's just...a wonderful experience.

Creamy Cauliflower Galette

This is the galette you make when you need something substantial and comforting, don’t feel like eating meat, and have had too much pasta or are—god forbid—sick of beans.

Lemon Pepper Pasta with Browned Butter

While “lemon” and “pepper” are the two primary flavors here, this pasta really does taste enough like cacio e pepe to hit many of the same pleasure receptors as excellent boxed macaroni and cheese.

Squash Soup with Lentils and Herbs

More squash than lentil, this soup has a lovely little sweetness and just enough cumin to remind me of eating soup from a co-op– a very specific, niche yet evocative reference.

Pork and Red Chili Pozole with Cabbage

While this may not be a true pozole—it’s thicker and more stew-like, I’ve added tomatillos for body and acidity, and there’s cabbage braised alongside the pork.

Anchovy Apple Apricot Artichoke Arugula Asparagus

Bacon Banana Beans & Legumes Beef Blue Cheese Blueberry Bread Brisket Broccoli Broccoli Rabe Buttermilk

Cabbage Capers Carrot Cauliflower Celery Chicken Chickpeas Chiles Chocolate Cinnamon Citrus Clams Coconut Corn Cornmeal Cranberries Cucumber

Dates Dill

Egg Eggplant Escarole

Farro Fennel Feta

Grapefruit Green Beans

Harissa Hazelnut Hominy Horseradish

Kale

Labne Lamb Leek Lemon Lentils Lettuce Lime

Maple Syrup Matzo Mushrooms Mustard

Olive Onion Orange

Panko Parmesan Parsley Peach Peas Pecan Pecorino Pepperoncini Pickles Pistachio Plum Pork Potato Puff Pastry

Radicchio Radish Red Onion Ricotta Rutabaga

Sage Salmon Sardines Sausage Scallions Sesame Shallot Shrimp Squash Steak Strawberry

Tahini Tarragon Tofu Tomatillo Tomato Tortilla Trout Tuna Turkey

Walnuts

Zucchini